Chemical Exfoliation 101

As scary as ‘chemical exfoliants’ sound, you shouldn’t shy away from them. Chemical exfoliation has been my go to exfoliation since the earth shattering St. Ives Apricot Scrub lawsuit of 2016. Let me catch you up on the scorching tea that shook the skincare world 4 years ago. The St. Ives Apricot Scrub was everyone’s go-to physical exfoliant, you even had celebrities raving about it! It’s cheap, lined most Walgreens and CVS skincare isles, and it was ‘effective’ in giving you super smooth, baby skin. OR SO YOU THOUGHT! We were all bamboozled, as this particular scrub contained walnut powder that ended damaging people’s skin with permanent microtears, along with the shorter side effects of breakouts, inflammation, and irritation. 

So needless to say, I was done with physical exfoliation and chemical exfoliants entered the chat.

Chemical exfoliants come in different molecule sizes, the smaller the chemical molecule, the deeper they penetrate. Let’s break down each different category and how to use them. 

AHA’s or Alpha Hydroxy Acids

AHA’s are water-soluble acids found in sugary fruits. They help peel off dead skin cells from the top layer of your skin, revealing smoother, softer, more even toned skin. Not only do AHA’s help with hyperpigmentation, they help with fine lines and wrinkles, and enlarged pores. The most common AHA’s are glycolic acid and lactic acid. 

Other AHA’s are:

• Malic acid

  • Exfoliates and helps other AHA’s (glycolic and lactic acid) exfoliate at different levels since this molecule is larger

• Tartaric acid

  • Helps other AHA’s work by maintaining their pH range

• Citric acid

  • Concentrations of 10% and up can be skin sensitizing due to its pH of 2.2

  • Low concentrations are used as antioxidants and pH adjusters

• Mandelic acid

  • Largest AHA molecule

  • Can increase oil production so it’s best used by dry skin types

AHA’s are safe for all skin types, but if you have dry and sensitive skin practice caution and patch test products before applying them all over your face. Also, AHA’s make your skin sensitive to the sun, so it’s best to use them at night to avoid any sun damage and wear sunscreen the morning after. Honestly, you should always wear SPF no matter what, but more so after you exfoliate. 

BHA’s or Beta Hydroxy Acids

BHA’s are oil-soluble molecules that penetrate deeper into the skin than AHA’s. Because BHA’s are oil-soluble, they’re great for unclogging pores, and getting sebum under control when you’re having a breakout or dealing with blackheads. BHA’s are also anti-inflammatory and help rid of bacteria, making them the go-to solution for acne related concerns. The most common BHA is salicylic acid. 

BHA’s  are also safe for all skin types, but people with dry and sensitive skin should be cautious when using it. I use salicylic acid at night, just like any AHA’s that I include in my skincare routine. And like I stated before, always use SPF the morning after you use BHA’s as they are exfoliators and can increase sun-sensitivity. 

PHA’s or Poly Hydroxy Acids 

PHA’s have the largest molecule size out of all chemical exfoliants, which makes them perfect for sensitive skin since they are slower to penetrate the skin. And since they’re fantastic for sensitive skin, they work great on all skin types. These can essentially be your stepping stone into chemical exfoliation if you’re brand new to the game. PHA’s are great for increasing cell renewal, locking in moisture, and acting as antioxidants. 

Examples of PHA’s are: 

• Gluconolactone

• Lactobionic acid

• Galactose

Like all chemical exfoliants, it’s always safer to use them at night and to wear SPF the day after. 

How to use chemical exfoliants 

You can definitely use AHA’s, BHA’s, and PHA’s together (these ingredients can actually be found formulated together in various products, like the AHA-BHA-PHA 30Days Miracle Toner from Some By Mi) , but you need to read the instructions of each product. Typically, it’s safer to combine products with these ingredients when they’re from the same product brand, as the concentrations vary per formulation. As I said earlier, ALWAYS PATCH TEST any new product you introduce to your skincare routine.

As we all know, our skin is very unique, and what works for me might not work for you. But I’ve found that if I use an AHA once a week at the most, and alternate between BHA’s and PHA’s then my skin tends to do well. 

If I’m breaking out pretty badly, then I use BHA’s for a week to a week and a half (currently loving the Caudalie Vinopure Natural Salicylic Acid Serum as it’s been killing my blackheads), then chill out for about a week, then use an AHA formula. 

Now, when my skin is living it’s best life, I use PHA’s twice a week like The INKEY List PHA Toner  and then a strong AHA formula (like The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution) once every 2 weeks. I’ve definitely made the mistake of over exfoliating and your girl paid dearly! Had the worst case of maskne I’ve ever had cause my skin moisture barrier was completely ravaged. So less is more when you exfoliate and always start slow.